What you need to know about your skin - part 2
Photo credit: Fernando @cferdophotography
“The skin is the window of the mind.”
The signs of disturbed skin barrier
When disturbed and compromised, the skin is no longer able to protect the body from environmental exposures and moisture loss and the consequences are usually revealed by some form of reaction such as excessively oily or dry, stingy, itchy, flaky, rough, and bumpy flare-ups.
Inflammation and redness signals that our body is trying to fix the problem with increased blood supply to repair, destroy ‘invaders’, or eliminate toxins. However, if this otherwise normal and healthy reaction becomes chronic, it gets out of control to become the origin of several skin disorders such as acne, allergic reactions, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and photo-damage.
Some causes of disturbed skin barrier
Our skin barrier can fail due to inherent or external influences. Examples are genetic factors, sensitivity, allergies, ageing, disease and psychological stress.
Some external factors are irritation, seasonal influences or environmental conditions such as cold or heat exposure (such as sun damage, wind burn, frostbite), ambient low humidity, heating during the winter months and diet affect the stratum corneum lipids with any deficiency in these lipids potentially resulting in dehydration.
The use of solvents, detergents, excessive use of water and soap, and other irritating chemicals can break down the protective lipid layer and increase trans-epidermal water loss by altering the skins natural water-holding capacity.
“The skin is connected to the brain via the nervous system as well as by the endocrine and immune systems. Due to these close connections, human skin is acutely sensitive to a variety of psychological/emotional states.
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A quick look at psychological stress
If we’ve known for a long time that that chronic stress is detrimental to our health, what is less known is that there is a direct relationship between our stress levels and the health of our skin.
There is a field of medicine called Psychodermatology which acknowledges the links between dermal and emotional health.
When we become aware of a problem, feel the itchiness and see the symptoms and unsightly blemishes break out, which are particularly alarming when they are on our face or other visible part of our bodies, our stress simultaneously arise.
Essential oils are proving to be an ideal way to treat stress-related skin problems because they not only work on the skin but also on the stress which aggravates the issue.
The diagram below illustrates the connection between stress, skin and brain as well as examples of how some essential oils can influence this skin-brain axis
What are PDE4 and how can essential oils help?
PDE4 are enzymes that help to regulate inflammation in your body but when the skin barrier is compromised, they can become overactive and lead to problems like eczema or psoriasis . A clinical study reveals that Sandalwood essential oil not only helps calm eczema and psoriasis through anti-inflammatory actions but also soothes the brain through anti-stress effects.
The Endocannabinoid System, CB-2 receptors and essential oils
The Endocannabinoid System (ECS) is a psycho-neuro-immuno-logical network which regulates our capacity for relaxation and the quality of our sleeping, eating and memory. It also plays a major role in skin homeostasis, influencing skin health in several ways by:
Modulating allergic response
Mediating and processing skin responses like pain and itching
Exerting and stimulating, through activation of CB-1 and CB-2, potent analgesic effects receptors at sensory nerve terminals and on inflammatory cells
An example of such activation can be found in beta-caryophyllene, the main component of Copaiba essential oil, which activates CB-2, which in turn, induces analgesic and anti-inflammatory actions on both skin and brain.
A little word about Cortisol
Cortisol, the stress hormone, can also affect the skin barrier, causing inflammation, irritation and itchiness.
Here again, clinical studies reveal that Sandalwood oil inhibits the enzyme that converts cortisone into cortisol in the skin. Lavender oil also has been shown to have overarching actions on skin and brain pathways, to promote relaxation as well as being an effective anti-inflammatory for irritation. Limonene and camphor, the main components of White Camphor essential oil also shows similar effects for irritation and itchiness.
By taking advantage of the dermal-olfactory pathway through the application of calming and relaxing essential oils, the impact of stress can be reduced due to its connection to the limbic/emotional region of the brain.
A quick look at ageing
Ageing is a natural but, at the same time, we want to delay the ageing process and its effects. The main signs of skin ageing are fine lines, dryness, loss of elasticity and abnormal pigmentation.
The skin loses elasticity and firmness due to the loss of collagen and elastin, which are the substances make up the bulk of the dermis. The skin gets less moist and supple, and loses some of the underlying fat which cushions it against injury.
Glandular activity slows and the skin becomes less moistened by sweat and less lubricated by sebum. Moreover, the circulatory system may be less efficient in providing nutrients and removing toxins.
Ageing can be addressed with essential oils by promoting antioxidant activity, or by inhibiting the activity of enzymes that are responsible for breaking down collagen and elastin.
A quick look at sun damage
We all know that sun damage from excess sunlight - especially in the UVA and UVB ranges – is detrimental to the skin, causing sunburn, photoaging and DNA damage to skin cells which can potentially lead skin cancer.
Yet, moderate sun exposure is vital for vitamin D production and our psycho-physiological wellbeing, both of which positively impact our immune system. So we have to find the right strategy to reap the benefits whilst avoiding the adverse effects.
Luckily nature provides us with solutions and we can protect ourselves from excessive sun exposure by using mineral sunscreens.
Sun damage can be mitigated by applying antioxidant rich essential oils and vegetable oils
About oxidation and oxidative stress
Oxidants, also known as free radicals, are small molecules that are unstable because they are missing an electron and so they aggressively try to “steal” electrons from other molecules in order to become stable. In this way, free radicals can quickly damage and kill healthy cells.
Oxidative stress happens constantly, but our body produces an abundance of antioxidant enzymes to dispose of the free radicals. However, as we age, the production and activity of these enzymes decreases significantly.
Oxidative stress can be countered by either using antioxidants, or by fostering the action of antioxidant enzymes.
Antioxidant essential oils that can protect cells from free radical damage ('free-radical scavengers') or prevent or slow down any damage to the cell include Lavender, Manuka, Patchouli, Myrrh, Rose otto and Sandalwood.
About inhibiting the activity of enzymes
By inhibiting collagenase and/or elastase, more collagen and elastin will remain in the dermis.
Essential oils that inhibit elastase include Black Pepper, Jasmine absolute, Palmarosa, Grapefruit, Lemon, Mandarin, Rose absolute, and Helichrysum.
The supportive action of vegetable oils
Vegetable oils are not just used as a base to “carry” essential oils into the skin but are chosen for their qualities to support the action of essential oils. In the context of ageing and sun damage the objective will be to look for oils that are rich in anti-oxidants and other components that protect the skin such as vitamin A, beta-carotene, fatty acids and essential fatty acids, phytosterols and squalene.
For instance clinical studies have shown that Olive and Pomegranate oils can reduce UV-induced DNA damage to skin cells and Tamanu oil has shown protective activity on healthy cells.
Avocado oil promotes cell regeneration, can increase skin hydration, and is indicated for inflamed, sun damaged and ageing skin.
Black seed oil, Nigella sativa, contains a unique chemical, thymoquinone, which is a potent antioxidant, anti-nociceptive, and anti-inflammatory agent. Extensive studies show that it offers powerful benefits and is soothing, emollient, and nourishing to the
skin. Its anti-inflammatory and potent antioxidant activity make it especially suited for products to address issues of damaged skin barrier such as eczema, psoriasis, acne, dry flaky skin, ageing skin, and in after-sun care products.
Rosehip seed oil, used in 10%-50% with Gotu Kola herbal oil make an extremely effective combination to stimulate skin regeneration and helps with loss of elasticity.
Oils with potential antipruritic(anti-itch) actions include Sweet almond oil, Apricot kernel oil, and Peach kernel oil.
Kui kui oil is an excellent emollient and slows down moisture loss, is also an effective antipruritic in treating itchy dry skin issues.
Essential oils in psychodermatology
There are a selection of essential oils which can help restore the homeostasis of the skin, as well as emotional well-being, these include : Lavender, Rose otto, Rose absolute, Palmarosa, Elemi, Camphor, Peppermint, Grapefruit, Lemon, Roman Chamomile, Yarrow, Frankincense, Myrrh, Helichrysum , German Chamomile, Iary, Sandalwood and Copaiba, Cape Chamomile, Geranium.
Essential oils considered to be relaxing, anxiety-relieving, soothing, and sedative which could potentially alleviate and reduce psychophysiologic skin conditions, these include: Bergamot,
Cedarwood, Roman chamomile, German chamomile, Lavender, Marjoram, Melissa, Neroli, Sweet orange, Petitgrain, Rose, Sandalwood, Mandarin, Mandarin Petitgrain, Tangerine, Ylang ylang and Vetiver
Some combinations to consider
For calming stress related flare ups: Camphor, Petitgrain, Lavender, Neroli and Sandalwood
For antioxidant benefits: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Rose otto, Manuka in Olive and Tamanu oil
For skin barrier integrity: Tangerine, Coriander, Palmarosa, Rose absolute, in Black seed oil
For itchy skin and pruritus :Sandalwood, Palmarosa, German or Roman Chamomile and Patchouli
For sun damage: Lavender, German Chamomile, Elemi in Aloe Vera gel
To summarise…
It is clear that when addressing specific skin conditions of my clients it’s really important to also consider their emotional wellbeing. I chose essential oils that will not only provide relief or alleviate the physical symptoms but also address the underlying stress and anxiety and reduce the adverse impact that stress has on the skin.
Aue! Sorry! I don’t think I managed to get this down to “bite-sized”, I’ll try to do better in my next post which will be about the benefits of aromatic massage!
References
Books
If you want to read more about Psychodermatology and Aromatherapy dermatology I highly recommend Janetta Bensouilah’s & Philippa Buck’s book Aromadermatology: Aromatherapy in the Treatment and Care of Common Skin Conditions
Other books I recommend are:
Essential Oil Safety, 2nd edition. Tisserand R, Young R 2014 Churchill Livingstone, Edinburgh.
Aromatherapeutic Blending: Essential Oils in Synergy, Jennifer Peace Rhind,Jessica Kingsley Publishers.
Research
Sharma M, Levenson C, Browning JC, Becker EM, Clements I, Castella P, Cox ME. East Indian Sandalwood Oil Is a Phosphodiesterase Inhibitor: A New Therapeutic Option in the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Disease. Front Pharmacol. 2018 Mar 9;9:200. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2018.00200. PMID: 29593534; PMCID: PMC5854648.
Sharma, M., Levenson, C., Clements, I. et al (2017). East Indian sandalwood oil (EISO) alleviates inflammatory and proliferative pathologies of psoriasis. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 8(March), 1–13. http://doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2017.00125
Moy RL, Levenson C. Sandalwood Album Oil as a Botanical Therapeutic in Dermatology. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Oct;10(10):34-39. Epub 2017 Oct 1. PMID: 29344319; PMCID: PMC5749697.
Choe, S. J., Kim, D., Kim, E. J. et al (2018). Psychological stress deteriorates skin barrier function by activating 11 β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 and the HPA axis. Scientific Reports, 8(1). http://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-018-24653-z
Choi, E. H., Brown, B. E., Crumrine, D. et al (2005). Mechanisms by which psychologic stress alters cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 124, 587–595. http://doi.org/10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23589.x
Fukada, M., Kano, E., & Miyoshi, M. (2012). Effect of “rose essential oil” inhalation on stress- induced skin-barrier disruption in rats and humans. Chemical Senses, 37(4), 347–356. http:// doi.org/10.1093/chemse/bjr108
Gelmini, F., Beretta, G., Anselmi, C. et al (2013). GC-MS profiling of the phytochemical constituents of the oleoresin from Copaifera langsdorffii Desf. and a preliminary in vivo evaluation of its antipsoriatic effect. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 440, 170–178. http://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2012.08.021
Gertsch, J., Leonti, M., Raduner, S. et al (2008). Beta-caryophyllene is a dietary cannabinoid. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 105(26), 9099–9104. http://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.0803601105
Grunebaum, L. D., Murdock, J., Castanedo-Tardan, M. P., & Baumann, L. S. (2011). Effects of lavender olfactory input on cosmetic procedures. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 10(2), 89–93. http://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00554.x
Afaq F, Abu Zaid M, Khan N et al 2009 Protective effect of pomegranate derived products on UVB- mediated damage in human reconstituted skin. Experimental Dermatology 18:553-561 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3004287/
Baylac S, Racine P 2004 Inhibition of human leukocyte elastase by natural fragrant extracts of aromatic plants. The International Journal of Aromatherapy 14:179-182 http:// www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0962456204000943
Etienne JJ, Pham Duc Tl, Simonet L et al 2000 New and unexpected cosmetic properties of perfumes. Effects upon free radicals and enzymes induced by essential oils, absolutes and fragrant compounds. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 22:317-328 http:// www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18503419
Fraternale, D., Flamini, G., & Ascrizzi, R. (2019). In vitro anticollagenase and antielastase activities of essential oil of Helichrysum italicum subsp. italicum (Roth) G. Don. Journal of Medicinal Food, 22(10), 1041–1046. https://doi.org/10.1089/jmf.2019.0054
Mori M, Okeda N, Kato Y et al 2002 Inhibition of elastase activity by essential oils in vitro. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 1:183-187 http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17147537
Romana-Souza, B., & Monte-Alto-Costa, A. (2019). Olive oil inhibits ageing signs induced by chronic stress in ex vivo human skin via inhibition of extracellular-signal-related kinase 1/2 and c-JUN pathways. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(2), 156–163. https:// doi.org/10.1111/ics.12520
Sivamani P, Singaravelu G, Thiagarajan V et al 2012 Comparative molecular docking analysis of essential oil constituents as elastase inhibitors. Bioinformation 8:457-460 http:// www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3374355/
Wei, A., & Shibamoto, T. (2007). Antioxidant activities and volatile constituents of various essential oils. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 55(5), 1737–1742. https://doi.org/ 10.1021/jf062959x
